Body positivity takes backseat as fashion houses pick skinnier models

The fashion world has long favored thinness as the ideal of beauty, but in the 2010s, the body positivity movement briefly took center stage. This movement promised acceptance of all body types, embraced curves, and advocated for inclusivity, especially on the runway. However, a decade later, industry insiders say things have shifted. Was body positivity just a passing trend? With the rise in popularity of weight-loss drugs like Ozempic, is thinness making a comeback?

To explore the truth, we interviewed designers, casting agents, and models at Paris Fashion Week. The body positivity movement originated in the 1960s, with icons like Marilyn Monroe broadening the rigid aesthetic standards of Hollywood. In the 2010s, with the rise of Instagram, influencers began showcasing fashion and beauty outside of glossy magazines and runways, thrusting the movement back into the spotlight. The curves of the Kardashian family also fueled the global popularity of the Brazilian butt lift.

“When body positivity came around, it felt incredibly empowering and liberating. It felt like a rebellion—something that had always been criticized was now being celebrated. It was like we had finally had enough of being judged,” said Enrica, a 28-year-old plus-size model. Plus-size models began to be hired by major brands, including Rihanna's highly sought-after lingerie brand, "Savage x Fenty," which launched in 2018 and is known for its runway extravaganzas showcasing a variety of body types, a modern alternative to the Victoria's Secret show.

Felicity Hayward, a 36-year-old plus-size model, recalled being scouted in 2011. “When I got the call from my first modeling agency, Storm (the agency that discovered Kate Moss), I thought I was being pranked,” she said. “Before the 2010s, attitudes towards larger bodies weren't positive, and it never occurred to me that being a plus-size model was even possible. Seeing this narrative change over the last decade or so has changed my life emotionally, physically, and financially.”

However, around 2020, progress began to slow. According to Vogue, out of 8,800 looks across 230 shows for the Autumn/Winter 2024 season, only 0.8% were shown by plus-size models. Simultaneously, a new weight-loss drug used to treat diabetes hit the market and quickly became popular. Semaglutide, also known as Ozempic and Wegovy, suppresses users' appetites and was approved for weight loss by the UK's National Health Service in 2023. Celebrities, including Elon Musk, began attributing their newfound slim figures to the drug, and the trend soon spread to consumers.

As Ozempic and its counterparts are increasingly used commercially for cosmetic purposes, industry insiders claim it has impacted the body positivity movement. “We’ve seen how quickly the narrative has shifted, with celebrities and influencers chasing what’s ‘in’ through surgery or drugs like Ozempic,” said Moya, a former model. Another model, Jenny, said, “When I realized that thinness was back, it made me happy because I was going to get more work. But then I realized that meant I had to keep up. Now I have to be the thinnest.”

Even the editor-in-chief of British Vogue has stated that the fashion world should be concerned about the recent trend of re-employing more slender models. “I do think that Ozempic probably has something to do with it. We’re in a moment where the pendulum seems to have swung back to thin being ‘in,’ and these things tend to be seen as a trend, and we don’t want them to be a trend,” Chioma Nnadi said on BBC Radio 4’s Today program. Berlin-based brand Namilia went viral for displaying “I Love Ozempic” T-shirts on its 2024 Fashion Week runway.

“The ‘I Love Ozempic’ T-shirt really touched a nerve,” said Nan Li, the brand's creative director, laughing, claiming the shirt was satirical. “With the rise of Ozempic, so many people are using it. Over the past couple of years, celebrities have just gotten thinner, but without talking about it.” Fast forward to January, when the men’s AW25 fashion week took place in Paris, and audiences could test the brands’ exact stance in real-time. Aside from a handful of designers, including Rick Owens, LGN, and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, I could count the plus-size models I saw on the week's shows on two hands.

“Paris is about elitism, and elitism means thin and white. There are some plus-size models in the shows, but they're not really plus—they're normal size. They are placed in each show to make the brand look body positive,” said Nan Li. Amidst the hustle and bustle of Fashion Week, Sean Beane, casting director for the iconic French brand Fursac, told the BBC: “The only motivation for a brand is to sell clothes—that’s it. I don’t think we need to lie about that.”

Beane added, “Brands adopted body positivity in the 2010s partly because they saw it as a commercial opportunity, and when they realized it wasn’t working as well as they hoped in 2020, they dropped it.” Beane added, “Frankly—I really don’t want to see clothes on people who look like me. I want to see it on the people I want to be.” Gauthier Borsarello, Fursac's creative director, laughed in agreement, saying, “I hate my body. I don’t want to see clothes on people who look like me.”

On the other hand, designers like Charles Jeffrey believe brands have a moral obligation to cast inclusively. “Body positivity has never been a trend for me,” he said. “It’s an opportunity to start taking responsibility.” Body positivity is woven into the fabric of Charles’ brand, which draws inspiration from the queer nightlife scene. This was evident in his Paris Fashion Week show. “The people in my show are the people I go out with. It’s never been about models, but about my friends and their different body types. It’s about my community around me,” the designer explained.

The reality seems to be that designers like Charles are the exception. Despite resistance from activists, industry insiders confirm that the body positivity movement is a thing of the past. “Yes, things have changed. In 2020 and 2021, we saw more diversity and inclusion on the runway—but in terms of body size, it’s taken a back seat now,” said Daniel Mitchell-Jones, co-founder of model agency Chapter Management. Daniel says that when he sends his curvy models to auditions, they are always well-received but often told the brand isn't interested this season.

Plus-size model Enrica told the BBC that not only are plus-size models being booked less, but their agents are actively struggling to get them work. “It's not uncommon to see four sample-size models and one plus-size model in a campaign. It makes you feel like you’re just a token,” she explained. Enrica says that brands sometimes use tactics in campaigns to disguise themselves as being inclusive—for example, highlighting stretch marks on a plus-size model while photoshopping them out on others. She said, “The message is ‘we don’t think you look as good as our slim models in our dresses. But we’re accepting you because we’re such nice people, so please give us your hard-earned money,’ which is despicable, and I don’t support it.”

If you want to change things, change your buying habits. At least, that’s what Sean Beane believes: “Everything is consumer-driven.” “It’s a vicious circle. Every fashion house gives its interpretation of what they know the customer wants, and it’s up to the consumer.” Gauthier Borsarello said, “There is a famous French saying: ‘If people stop producing, people will stop buying.’ But the opposite is also true. If people stop buying, we will stop producing.” “Nobody is forcing you to do anything. It’s about educating the client: in a polite way—educate yourself.”

And one good thing about the body being a trend is that the pendulum will eventually swing back. “Nothing ever disappears forever, especially in fashion,” said Beane.