After using a face cream recommended by a friend, Nur Leni Astuti was ecstatic to see her skin "glowing" after just a few uses. However, this joy eventually turned to horror as dark spots began to appear on her face after two years of using the cream day and night. She later realized the potential dangers of unregulated beauty products.
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02-11, 2025She stopped using the product, but it was too late. The pigmentation was so pronounced that she disliked appearing in public, and she also began seeing a psychologist for depression. "People's stares... made me uncomfortable. It made me overthink," Ms. Astuti said. "It got to the point where I didn't want to meet and interact with anyone," she added, highlighting the profound impact on her social life.
In 2019, Ms. Astuti consulted a dermatologist in Indonesia but didn't get a clear answer as to the cause of her skin condition, hoping it would eventually fade with time. But the situation only worsened, so in 2021, she sought out a second dermatologist who said the discoloration was most likely caused by mercury or hydroquinone in the product she had been using. This underscored the importance of accurate diagnosis in addressing skin issues.
Skin-whitening creams containing mercury or hydroquinone can have adverse health effects. Many countries have banned the sale of beauty products containing mercury, while the use of hydroquinone is restricted or prohibited. However, Ms. Astuti was unable to determine which ingredients were in the "Esther M and S cream" she used because there was no ingredient list on the packaging, illustrating a significant gap in consumer protection.
It wasn't until Ms. Astuti saw a series of social media videos warning women not to use the cream because it contained mercury that she felt her and her dermatologist's suspicions might be correct. She also discovered that the cream, which she bought at a traditional market in East Kalimantan that sells beauty products alongside fruits and vegetables, had been banned by the Indonesian Food and Drug Administration (BPOM) since 2011 because the agency had found mercury in the product.
Despite the ban on the cream and other beauty products, authorities warn that products containing harmful substances are still being illegally imported into Indonesia by third parties and sold there. The BPOM said it confiscated 205,400 pieces of contraband products from 69 brands in October and November. Most were imported from China, but the agency also seized products from South Korea, Malaysia, Thailand, the Philippines, and India, revealing the widespread nature of the problem.
The ABC found online listings for Esther M and S cream on several e-commerce websites, including Shopee (the Indonesian version of Temu), and reported the listings to the BPOM. Several of the listings have now been removed, and Shopee has been contacted for comment. The ABC was unable to contact Esther M and S because it is unclear which company manufactures the product, and even the BPOM does not know. It is also unclear whether the Esther M and S cream listed on Shopee is the same product Ms. Astuti used more than a decade ago and whether it contains the same ingredients.
Ms. Astuti is now using TikTok to warn others about harmful ingredients like mercury in beauty products. She is also encouraging her social media followers to "embrace" their skin tone. "Whatever the color, whether it's black, brown, white, or yellow, just accept it," she said, advocating for self-acceptance and challenging beauty standards.
Ms. Astuti's story caught the attention of social media influencer and medical doctor Maria Fransisca, who has 2.6 million TikTok followers. Dr. Fransisca has become popular for her educational videos about beauty products. In some videos, she demonstrates how consumers can check for themselves whether a product may contain mercury. For example, it may have a pungent odor or have a sticky, glossy texture, providing practical advice to consumers.
Dr. Fransisca is currently working with Ms. Astuti to raise awareness, telling the ABC that mercury in beauty products affects people differently. This could explain why Ms. Astuti's family and friends used the same product but only experienced minor pigmentation. Individual reactions to harmful substances can vary significantly based on factors like genetics and overall health.
The World Health Organization (WHO) says mercury is a "common but dangerous ingredient" in skin-lightening creams and soaps. Mercury salts inhibit the production of melanin, resulting in a lighter skin tone. However, the WHO website states that mercury in skin lighteners may be "hazardous to health" and can cause rashes, discoloration, and scarring. It can also lead to peripheral neuropathy, depression, anxiety, and kidney damage, highlighting the serious health risks associated with mercury exposure.
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency's website states that the severity of symptoms from mercury exposure depends on factors such as the duration and level of exposure. Dr. Fransisca said consumers in Indonesia should only use products that have been approved by the country's BPOM. "Check the product packaging, it should include information such as the brand, benefits, and most importantly, the [BPOM] registration number," she advised, emphasizing the importance of verifying product legitimacy.
Dr. Fransisca said beauty products can quickly become popular online, and consumers need timely safety information from authorities. "They need to react faster to public complaints. It takes a long time for [authorities] to report a case," she stated, calling for more responsive action from regulatory bodies.
The head of the agency, Taruna Ikrar, refuted this claim, telling the ABC that the regulator responds within 24 hours after receiving accurate, detailed reports about unsafe products. Under Indonesia's health legislation, manufacturers and distributors of non-compliant beauty products can face up to 12 years in prison or fines of up to 5 billion Indonesian rupiah ($500,000), outlining the legal consequences for those who violate safety regulations.
Mr. Ikrar said the agency recently identified four cases, including two that resulted in orders to recall and destroy products. The other two are under further investigation. He said authorities blocked links to 12,293 online listings for prohibited beauty products in 2024. However, Mr. Ikrar said regulating the beauty industry in Indonesia is challenging due to the size of the market, staffing limitations, and, in some cases, deceptive business practices that are often a "serious violation" of Indonesian law.
He said, "When they [operators] submit products for registration, the labels and their contents do not show traces of mercury. But, [in some cases] after obtaining the registration number, they add mercury to the product." In January, the agency held an event with 35 social media influencers, hoping they could help spread awareness about harmful beauty products, leveraging the power of social media to reach a wider audience.
With the proliferation of e-commerce platforms, many brands banned by Indonesian regulators are available to Australian consumers. Michelle Wong, a science educator and beauty influencer in Sydney, said people need to do their due diligence when buying beauty products online. "I don't think people realize that the safety of products you buy from Temu or Etsy isn't very tightly regulated," Dr. Wong said, highlighting the risks associated with purchasing from unregulated sources.
She said consumers should avoid buying cheap products that look "suspicious" and buy from reputable stores registered in Australia. "If there's anything that looks off, like words on the product are misspelled, then it's probably not very legitimate," she advised, providing practical tips for identifying potentially unsafe products. A Temu spokesperson said the company "takes product safety and compliance very seriously." The ABC contacted Etsy for comment but did not receive a response.
Dr. Wong said people should also monitor their skin the first time they use a product and see a doctor if they have a severe reaction. For Ms. Astuti, speaking out about the dangers of using unregulated and banned products has helped her regain her confidence and rebuild her life. As a single mother, Ms. Astuti said her children are her main motivation to keep fighting. "I have to show my children that I can be a good mother in my own way," she concluded, emphasizing her resilience and determination.
