The truth behind your £10 dress: Inside the Chinese factories fuelling Shein's success

In Guangzhou, along the bustling port of the Pearl River, the whirring of sewing machines is a constant sound. From dawn till dusk, the rhythmic noise spills from factory windows as workers rush to produce T-shirts, shorts, shirts, trousers, and swimwear, garments destined for wardrobes in over 150 countries around the globe.

This is Panyu, an area known as "Shein Village," densely packed with factories powering the world's largest fast-fashion retailer. One worker told the BBC, "If there are 31 days in a month, I work 31 days." Most workers report having only one day off per month, highlighting the intense working conditions.

The BBC spent several days investigating, visiting 10 factories, interviewing four factory owners and more than 20 workers, and examining labor markets and textile suppliers. They found that at the heart of this vast empire are workers putting in around 75 hours a week, a clear violation of Chinese labor laws, and a demonstration of the demanding pace of production.

Such working hours are not uncommon in Guangzhou, an industrial hub where rural migrants seek higher incomes; China has long been the world's factory floor. But it undoubtedly adds to questions about Shein, the once-obscure Chinese company that has become a global giant in just over five years, raising concerns about its ethical practices.

Shein remains a private company, valued at an estimated £36 billion ($60 billion), and is currently considering a listing on the London Stock Exchange. However, its meteoric rise has been accompanied by controversy over its treatment of workers and allegations of forced labor. Last year, the company admitted to finding child labor in its Chinese factories, further fueling the scrutiny.

Shein declined an interview, but in a statement to the BBC, it said, "Shein is committed to ensuring that all workers in our supply chain are treated fairly and with dignity" and is investing tens of millions of dollars to strengthen governance and compliance. The statement added: "We strive to set the highest standards for compensation and require all supply chain partners to adhere to our code of conduct. In addition, Shein works with auditors to ensure compliance."

Shein's success lies in its enormous volumes—with online inventories of hundreds of thousands of items—and rock-bottom discounts: £10 dresses, £6 sweaters, with an average price below £8. Its revenues have soared, surpassing brands like H&M, Zara, and Primark in the UK. Behind the low prices are places like "Shein Village," with an estimated 5,000 factories, most of which are Shein suppliers, highlighting the scale of its operations.

The interiors of these buildings are gutted to accommodate sewing machines, rolls of fabric, and sacks filled with scraps. Doors to basements are perpetually open, receiving what seems like an endless stream of deliveries and collections. Over time, shelves fill up with transparent plastic bags bearing the Shein logo, ready for shipment to warehouses, showcasing the constant movement of goods.

Even after 10 p.m., the sewing machines and the workers bent over them don't stop, as more fabric is delivered, with trucks arriving full, and sometimes bundles of colorful cloth tumbling onto the factory floor. A 49-year-old woman from Jiangxi, who didn't want to be named, said: "We usually work 10, 11, or 12 hours a day. On Sundays, we work for about three hours less," illustrating the grueling work schedule.

She stood in a small alleyway where a dozen people were clustered around a row of notice boards. They were reading job ads, while also checking the stitching on the khaki trousers that were hanging there, demonstrating the casual labor market. This is Shein's supply chain. Factories produce clothing to order, large or small. If the khaki trousers sell well, orders increase, and production must be ramped up. Factories then hire temporary workers to meet demand that their permanent staff cannot fulfill.

The migrant worker from Jiangxi was looking for a short-term contract, and the khaki trousers were an option. "We earn too little. The cost of living is too high now," she said. She also said she hoped to earn enough to send money to her two children who live with their grandparents. "We are paid per piece," she explained. "It depends on the difficulty of the item. For something simple like a T-shirt, it's one or two yuan [less than a dollar] per piece, and I can do about a dozen in an hour," detailing the piece-rate pay system.

Checking the stitching on the khaki trousers is critical to making a decision. The workers around her were calculating how much they could earn for each garment they made and how many they could do in an hour. The alleyways of Panyu act as a labor market, bustling in the mornings as workers and scooters weave their way past breakfast dumpling stalls, steaming cups of soy milk, and farmers selling eggs, emphasizing the vibrant but demanding nature of the work.

The BBC found that a standard working day appeared to be from 8 a.m. until after 10 p.m. This is consistent with a report by the Swiss advocacy group, Public Eye, based on interviews with 13 textile workers at factories making clothes for Shein. They found that many staff were working overtime. The report noted that the basic wage without overtime was 2,400 yuan (£265; $327), below the 6,512 yuan that the Asia Floor Wage Alliance says is needed for a "living wage". But the workers we interviewed were earning between 4,000 and 10,000 yuan a month, showing a range in earnings.

David Hachfield of the group said: "These working hours are not unusual, but it is clear that it is illegal and a violation of basic human rights. It's an extreme form of exploitation, and it needs to be addressed." Chinese labor law states that average working hours should not exceed 44 hours a week, and employers should ensure workers have at least one day off a week. If employers want to extend working hours, there should be a special reason, highlighting the legal violations.

While Shein's headquarters are now in Singapore, it is undeniable that the bulk of its products are made in China. Shein's success has drawn attention in Washington, which is increasingly wary of Chinese companies. In June, Donald Trump's pick for US Secretary of State, Marco Rubio, said he had "serious moral concerns" about Shein's "deep ties to the People's Republic of China": "Slave labor, sweatshops, and trade trickery are the dirty secret of Shein's success," he wrote, showing the political scrutiny it faces.

Not everyone agrees with Rubio's language to describe the conditions of Shein's suppliers. But human rights groups say that for many in Guangzhou, long working hours have become a way of life, and that it is unfair and exploitative. Machines dictate the rhythm of the day. At lunch and dinner, workers queue to buy food from the canteens with metal plates and chopsticks. If there are no seats, they eat standing in the street, showing the limited facilities and constant pressure.

One woman, who only had 20 minutes to eat, said: "I've been working in these factories for more than 40 years." For her, it was just another day. The factories we visited were not cramped. They were well-lit and had industrial fans to keep the workers cool. Huge posters urged staff to report underage workers – likely a response to the discovery of two cases of child labor in the supply chain last year, indicating a push for compliance.

The BBC understands the company is closely monitoring its suppliers, as it prepares for a listing on the London Stock Exchange. Sheng Lu, professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware, said: "It's about their reputation. If Shein can successfully do an IPO, that means they're being recognized as a legitimate company. But if they want to keep investor confidence, they have to take some responsibility," highlighting the stakes involved in the company's public listing.

One of the biggest challenges facing Shein is accusations that it sources cotton from China's Xinjiang region. Xinjiang cotton was once hailed as some of the best fabric in the world, but it has fallen out of favor after allegations that it was produced using forced labor by Muslim Uyghurs - a claim that Beijing denies. Professor Sheng said the only way to address this criticism is to be more transparent. "Unless you completely publish your factory list, unless you make your supply chain more transparent to the public, I think it will be very challenging for Shein," showing the importance of supply chain transparency.

He added that one major advantage is that Shein's supply chain is in China: "Very few countries have a complete supply chain. China has that – and no one can compete with it." Aspiring rivals like Vietnam and Bangladesh import raw materials from China to make clothes. But Chinese factories rely entirely on local resources, from fabric to zips and buttons. As a result, it is easy to make a wide variety of clothes, and they are able to do it quickly, showcasing the advantages of a local supply chain.

This is particularly true for Shein, whose algorithms dictate orders. If shoppers repeatedly click on a dress, or spend more time looking at a woolly jumper, the company knows to ask factories to make more – and fast. For workers in Guangzhou, this can be a challenge. One factory owner told us: "Shein is good and bad. The good thing is the orders end up being big, but the profit is low and fixed," illustrating the double-edged sword of working with Shein.

Given its size and influence, Shein is a difficult buyer to bargain with. So factory owners have to cut costs elsewhere, often leading to lower wages for their staff. One owner with three factories said: "Before Shein, we produced and sold clothes ourselves. We could estimate the costs, decide the price and calculate the profit. Now, Shein controls the price, and you have to think about how to reduce costs," showing the power imbalance.

However, when orders peak, it's like a feast. The company ships about one million parcels a day on average, according to logistics consultancy ShipMatrix. Guo Qing'e, a Shein supplier, said: "Shein is the backbone of the fashion industry." "I joined Shein when it started. I witnessed its rise. Honestly, Shein is a great company in China. I think it will become stronger because it pays on time. This is the most reliable thing about it," highlighting the positive aspects from a supplier's perspective.

"If the payment due date for our goods is the 15th, whether the amount is millions or tens of millions, the money will be paid on time." Shein, with its grueling hours and sometimes low wages, may not be comfortable for all workers. But for some, there is a sense of pride. A 33-year-old supervisor from Guangdong, who didn't want to be named, said: "This is what we Chinese can contribute to the world," showcasing the different perspectives on working for Shein.

Outside, it was dark as workers returned to the factories after their evening meal for a final push. She acknowledged the long hours but said, "We get along well. We're like a family." Hours later, many workers went home for the night, but the lights remained on in several buildings. One factory owner told us some work until midnight. He said they want to earn more money. After all, in London, Chicago, Singapore, Dubai, and many other places, someone is looking for their next bargain, showing the global reach of Shein's operations.