Not so demure any more: The rise of 'free the nipple' fashion

Six months ago, a trend that went viral on TikTok had us captivated by elegance and focus. However, now on red carpets and runways, see-through outfits have become the trend that celebrities are chasing, and modesty seems to have taken a back seat. This shift marks a noticeable change in fashion preferences.

At the BRIT Awards last week, winner Charli XCX wore a black see-through dress, prompting media regulator Ofcom to receive hundreds of complaints. She responded to the controversy surrounding her outfit in her acceptance speech, saying, "I heard ITV is complaining about my nipples. I feel like we're in a 'Free the Nipple' era, right?" Her statement underscored the ongoing debate about freedom of expression in fashion.

This nearly-nude look has become a hot topic at other award ceremonies, including the Oscars last Sunday and the Grammys in February. At the Grammys, Kanye West's girlfriend, Bianca Censori, removed her coat on the red carpet to reveal an almost completely transparent dress. These instances highlight the growing acceptance, or at least prevalence, of revealing outfits.

The fondness for transparent fabrics has also extended to London and Paris Fashion Weeks, with many celebrities watching the fashion shows following suit. At Stella McCartney's Paris fashion show, American actress and Michael Jackson's daughter, Paris Jackson, wore a semi-transparent black off-the-shoulder gown with only a nude thong underneath. Rapper Ice Spice wore a black lace catsuit with a feather coat at the fashion show. The trend is clearly influencing celebrity fashion choices.

Naked dressing is a key trend in designers' spring/summer collections, and this theme has continued into the autumn/winter collections. Vogue magazine wrote in January: "For a while, see-through outfits were rare, but now 'naked dressing' is common every season." Dior's latest collection uses transparent materials and presents them in a flowing way, with delicate details and androgynous silhouettes. Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri described her collection as "showing how clothing can be a container that affirms culture, aesthetics and social norms." The incorporation of transparency is thus intentional and meaningful.

This trend is controversial but is undoubtedly part of a broader movement. Last summer, Charli XCX's definition of "bimbos" included wearing "strappy white tops with no bra." See-through outfits are a tribute to the minimalist style of the 1990s, such as sheer shirts and slip dresses worn by Kate Moss. Given our love of nostalgic fashion, it is not surprising that it has become popular again. The cyclical nature of fashion is apparent in this revival.

This trend also revived a decade ago. The "Free the Nipple" movement was ubiquitous in the early 2010s, and Rihanna caused a sensation when she wore a transparent crystal-embellished dress to the 2014 CFDA Awards. Charli XCX's outfit at the BRIT Awards was praised by some on social media. "Stop interfering with women's bodies," one netizen wrote, and another said she felt comfortable in the dress, so "why should society judge?" The support for individual expression is a key aspect of this perspective.

However, many believe it is too revealing for prime-time television. Ofcom received 825 complaints about the BRIT Awards ceremony, most of which were related to Charli's outfit and Sabrina Carpenter's performance before a children's program. "Maybe it should be considered to broadcast it when children are not watching," one netizen wrote on social media. Concerns about appropriateness for certain audiences are often raised in these discussions.

Julia Pukhalskaia, fashion stylist and CEO of clothing brand Mermaid Way, said that choosing to wear a revealing dress is a "provocative statement," but she said it is a "way to regain the right to dominate one's body." She added that the controversy surrounding it sparked a broader conversation about women's rights and double standards in dress codes. The act of choosing revealing clothing can be seen as a form of empowerment.

Abhi Madan, creative director of fashion brand Amarra, believes that this trend "is about embracing the freedom and boldness of fashion." She believes that the concept of freeing the nipple "is not just about exposure, it is also a movement toward body positivity and challenging traditional fashion norms." "Designers are now integrating transparent elements not just to create a sensation, but to create a sophisticated and elegant silhouette that empowers the wearer." The intention behind the trend is evolving beyond mere shock value.

This year, many Hollywood stars seem to have felt this power, as chiffon, lace and tulle were everywhere at the Oscars. Of course, for some, the sensational effect is also a factor. At the Vanity Fair Oscar party, Julia Fox wore a mesh dress, using only long, wavy hair to cover some private parts. The desire for attention can also play a role in these fashion choices.

There are other interpretations of the naked dress. Megan Thee Stallion wore a green dress with strategically placed leaves and nipple covers, while Zoë Kravitz chose to cover the front but reveal the back, with a beaded mesh panel revealing her hips in a Saint Laurent dress. The New York Times noted: "This year, naked dressing seems to be particularly prevalent at this event." The variety of approaches demonstrates the diverse interpretations of the trend.

However, not everyone agrees with this trend. Anna Murphy, fashion director of The Times, wrote that she was tired of the trend because "only women do it." She wrote: "This is not an equal opportunity effort. On the contrary, this is some manifestation of making this world unequal. Women's bodies are for public consumption, while men's bodies are generally not." The unequal application of the trend is a significant point of criticism.

However, some men have also begun to embrace this nearly-naked trend. In 2022, Timothée Chalamet wore an eye-catching backless red top at the Venice Film Festival, and at the 2023 Grammy Awards, Harry Styles freed the nipple in a plunging V-neck harlequin jumpsuit. The increasing inclusion of men in this trend challenges the notion that it is solely a female phenomenon.

Women will continue to cause greater sensations on the runway and red carpet, and society will remain divided on whether this redefines traditional fashion modesty, is a product of misogyny, or is simply seeking attention. The debate surrounding this trend is complex and multifaceted, reflecting diverse viewpoints on fashion, gender, and society.