Donatella Versace steps down as creative director after almost three decades

The renowned high fashion brand Versace has announced the departure of its creative director, Donatella Versace. She will be succeeded by Dario Vitale, formerly the design director of Miu Miu, with the appointment effective April 1st. This marks the first time in Versace's 47-year history that the brand will be led by someone outside the Versace family.

Versace welcomed Vitale's arrival, emphasizing in a statement that "supporting the next generation of designers has always been important to me." She stated, "I am delighted that Dario Vitale will be joining us and look forward to a fresh perspective on Versace." Donatella also thanked her exceptional design team and all Versace employees she has had the privilege of working with over the past three decades.

Donatella Versace will assume a new role as Chief Brand Ambassador, stating that she "will continue to be Versace's most passionate supporter." Meanwhile, speculation suggests that the Prada Group is in talks with Capri Holdings to acquire Versace. Capri Holdings acquired Versace in 2018 for 2 billion euros and also owns Michael Kors and Jimmy Choo.

Miuccia Prada, head of the Prada Group, acknowledged the brand's interest during Milan Fashion Week last month, while Versace remained silent on the matter at her final fashion show. At the show, Versace symbolically wore a vintage jacket made for her by Gianni in 1992, inspired by the powerful "Miss S&M" collection. Capri Holdings' statement did not mention any plans to sell Versace, but the arrival of a designer from Miu Miu only intensifies speculation about a potential deal.

In 1997, Donatella Versace stepped into the role of creative director after her brother, Gianni Versace, was murdered in Miami. "Being able to carry on Gianni's legacy has been the greatest honor of my life," she said. "He was the true genius, but I hope I have carried on some of his spirit and resilience." As the leader of the fashion house, she brought a bold style, creating some iconic fashion shows and red carpet moments. On the 20th anniversary of Gianni's death, Donatella created a healing tribute collection, bringing together the supermodels he had championed.

Under Donatella's leadership, Versace became synonymous with the powerful woman she herself embodies, although she also experienced periods of self-doubt. "I asked myself, why did it take me so long to find my own way," she told reporters before the anniversary show. "In the early years, I didn't have confidence in myself. I made mistakes. But you learn from mistakes." Versace received love and support on social media from young designers, including Fausto Puglisi, creative director of Roberto Cavalli, and former Valentino designer Pierpaolo Piccioli. "I hope that so far, I have not let you down," Versace wrote in a post celebrating her and Gianni's creations and Versace's nearly 50 years of highlights.

Versace CEO John D. Idol stated in a statement that this creative transition is "part of Versace's well-thought-out succession plan." He called Vitale a "strong leader" and expressed confidence that "his talent and vision will play an important role in Versace's future growth." Idol said that as Chief Brand Ambassador, Versace "will continue to champion the Versace brand and its values." Versace accounts for 20% of Capri Holdings, with revenues of 5.2 billion euros in 2024.

Capri recently developed strategic plans to rebalance Versace's portfolio, returning the brand to its bolder roots, increasing accessories sales, and winning back entry-level consumers who had been deterred by the post-pandemic focus on higher net worth clients. During the presentation, Idol acknowledged that Versace had recently underperformed in menswear, "because historically...the customer was used to our very, very loud style. And we've become much quieter."

Vitale, who has been with Miu Miu since 2010, will bear the responsibility of attracting new customer groups. "Versace and Miu Miu are very different brands with very different customers," said Federico Giglio, CEO of Italian retailer Giglio.com. Miu Miu's customers like more details, elegant looks while remaining playful, while Versace women have a more flamboyant and sexy style, he added. "However, a good designer knows how to identify with the company's DNA and add their own personal style."