DISCOVERING FIJI – My first cave experience - Voice of Asia - Telling Stories from Asia to the World!

Waking up at five in the morning after only three hours of sleep, the previous night's gathering having ended at one a.m., my head still buzzing, I realized I was about to embark on a three-hour hike and cave exploration – if I were to describe the word "daunting" in my own way, this would be it. Despite the lack of preparation, a good journalist always seizes opportunities and presses forward.

In last week's "Exploring Fiji" series, we introduced a cave discovered by villagers of Nalebaleba in the Nakorotubu district of Ra province. We discussed the significance of this discovery, including the various artifacts and materials found within the cave, and why its existence was largely unknown despite its proximity to the Nakoroivaivaigu village site, the ancestral home of the Nalebaleba people.

This week, we will share a journalist's reflections on the surreal experience of traversing dense tropical forests, documenting every moment of the journey, and stepping into the unknown – the ancient Nakoroivaivaigu cave. Our team primarily consisted of villagers from Nalebaleba, and also included Vilimaina Ravai, a journalist from the "Na iLalakai" newspaper. The village chief led us, acting as both our host and protector during our stay in Nalebaleba, whom we affectionately call Turaga ni Koro.

Leaving the village at 6 a.m. on Tuesday, February 4th, we arrived at the cave entrance at approximately 9 a.m. Frankly, a wave of euphoria washed over me as I stepped into the cave, something I hadn't anticipated. My personal guide was a young man named Peni Kadreremo, who was the first to discover and explore this cave in January of this year. The air inside the cave was breathable, but it became increasingly murky as we went deeper. It was wise to carry plenty of water, at least to ensure your blood got some form of oxygen relief from H2O. The cave walls were damp and waxy in texture, with stalactites spiraling down from the ceiling and stalagmites protruding from the ground along the main path.

"Look on either side, you'll notice small tunnels leading in unknown directions," Peni told me. Sure enough, as I scanned the walls, I saw narrow tunnels, some barely wide enough for an adult to squeeze through, albeit with great difficulty. After about 15 minutes, we reached what appeared to be a dried-up underground waterfall. All that remained was a rocky pool, supplied by fresh filtered water dripping directly from the ceiling above. "We put this blue bucket here to collect water. It's a rest stop. Have a drink, it's the freshest water you'll ever taste," Turaga ni Koro said. We obliged, cupping our hands to drink. It was a much-needed replenishment. Indeed, after being accustomed to the Water Authority of Fiji's supply, the coolness and purity of this natural water hit me like a brick – but in the best way.

Further inside, we came to a section where water flowed out of a half-meter-wide horizontal opening in the rock wall. Peni turned to me and gestured. "Come on! Don't be afraid, follow me," he said as he wriggled into the crevice. "Here goes nothing," I muttered to myself, hesitating before squeezing in. Surprisingly, I managed it with relative ease. The next chamber was smaller than the one we had just emerged from, so much so that we had to crouch – in some places, we had to crawl on our knees because the ceiling was so low. Eventually, we reached a sort of uneven staircase, leading to an almost oval-shaped opening in the ground.

"Down there is the chamber I told you about – the one with the throne-like rocks and the shimmering walls," Peni called down to me. By this point, I was soaked through, and I realized my shorts had ripped – probably from all the wriggling. As I analyzed the oval-shaped opening that I had to climb down to reach the hidden chamber, I quickly decided – I couldn't fit. "Mai! Kua ni rere! (Come on, don't be afraid)" voices called from around me. I stared into the hungry abyss. I'd come this far, it would be a shame if I didn't at least try, I thought. So, I took off my jacket and climbed down. My legs slid effortlessly to my stomach, then the rocky outline of the opening stopped my descent.

Turaga ni Koro watched closely, offering advice. "Try rotating your body as you slowly lower yourself, you can do it." For what seemed like 10 to 20 minutes, I tried every technique and contortion I could think of, but I just couldn't squeeze through. Then I tried to pull myself back up, but I had twisted my body so much that my worst fear came to pass. I was stuck, and I only wished I was a professional contortionist. A sudden wave of claustrophobia washed over me. Sensing my struggle, Turaga ni Koro climbed to where I was. With a mighty pull, he hauled me out. I scrambled back to the safety of the waiting area above and collapsed on the ground – exhausted but relieved. I handed my camera to Peni and asked him to film footage and photos of the chamber below.

Soon after, he and the rest of the group climbed up, and Turaga ni Koro accompanied me through the narrow passage back to the main path. "Let's go, the others are waiting for us outside," he said, patting me on the back. I had never been so happy to hear the words "let's go back." Exploring the cave is not for the faint of heart. It's like being imprisoned in the belly of a giant beast. In my mind, I admired and said: "Ra sa ra ga."